My trip to NZ commenced in Christchurch, which was a veritable ghost town on my first day of strolling it. Was is the recent earthquakes? They had certainly caused a lot of damage - buildings and whole street sections were cordoned off left right and centre, either under repair or demolition.
I had some organising to do, but it didn't take up too much of my time. Thus I set about enacting one of my favourite activities: finding the best places to eat, have good coffee, beer wifi et al. I had planned to be on the strictest budget possible this trip, but I quickly found that there are some things in life that I just can't skimp on.
New Zealand has an excellent craft beer scene, and admittedly I had already promised myself before the trip that good beer would not be subject to my cost cutting. The beer highlight of Chch was The Twisted Hop, a brew/pub in the centre of town. It is a prime example of the kind of establishment I would love to see more of. They have a simple, good menu of comforting beer food. They support other craft breweries by having many bottles from various breweries available, as well as a guest tap. The highlight though, is of course their own beer. They have about 5 English-style cask conditioned ales on hand pump, and a few other styles, such as a pilsner that showcases NZ Sauvin hops. Also great was Pommeroy's, a pub about 20 minutes walk from the centre, which has 12 odd taps and a couple of hand pumps all dispensing various NZ craft beer.
Other highlights included some arvo cragging in the Port Hills, and some chilli mushrooms for breakfast one morning from the Beat Street Cafe. I then broke one of my cost cutting measure - hitching everywhere - by getting a bus to Wanaka. I'm glad I did, for various reasons, not least of which was the fact I had to carry around half my body weight in luggage!
It was nice to be back in Wanaka. It is hard to imagine a more beautiful setting for a town, perched on a lake as it is and surrounded by mountains, with a view to the snow peaks of Aspiring NP. I only stayed there one night though before heading up the West Matukituki Valley - the weather forecast was fantastic and I was keen to do some tramping. My planned itinerary was to cross to the Dart Valley via Cascade Saddle, and walk out to Glenorchy (and of course return to Wanaka via Fergburger in Queenstown) but there was just too much snow around the tops. Good for climbing - bad for walking. Instead I spent four wonderful days wandering the West Matukituki and then the East Matukituki in perfect weather.
I had a couple of rest days back in Wanaka, which naturally included a few brews, and even a visit to the local craft brewery, Wanaka Beerworks. They stick to three, not-so-adventurous styles, but they do them very well. I then headed back into Aspiring NO as the next weather window was coming about.
I was keen to climb Mt Aspiring, but couldn't find any partners, so climbed the SE ridge of Mt Barff, as had been recommended to me, instead. The name belies how pretty a mountain it actually is, and the route itself was 'just what the doctor ordered'. When walking by oneself up the valley, it's possible to think many thoughts, many doubtful, but when I was up there and the sun rose to shine on me on my way up, my very soul felt warmed by it.
After Barff-ing (haha, how lame...) I eventually made my way to Mount Cook Village (MCV). It is a small, out of the way place, especially compared to Wanaka, but is at the doorstep of the most extensive range of 'hills' here, and is also (or therefore) a place where many travelling climbers come to meet partners. Unfortunately the weather has been fairly average, causing plenty of hut time (where thinking of how to concoct the next meal from a limited supply of ingredients is the main agenda), but a couple of us did get out cragging on some great 'greywhacke', which I'm keen to revisit some time, and we fitted in a good day walk/climb the other day up a nearby ridge. In the meantime, we're just waiting for all those long white clouds to go away.
I had some organising to do, but it didn't take up too much of my time. Thus I set about enacting one of my favourite activities: finding the best places to eat, have good coffee, beer wifi et al. I had planned to be on the strictest budget possible this trip, but I quickly found that there are some things in life that I just can't skimp on.
New Zealand has an excellent craft beer scene, and admittedly I had already promised myself before the trip that good beer would not be subject to my cost cutting. The beer highlight of Chch was The Twisted Hop, a brew/pub in the centre of town. It is a prime example of the kind of establishment I would love to see more of. They have a simple, good menu of comforting beer food. They support other craft breweries by having many bottles from various breweries available, as well as a guest tap. The highlight though, is of course their own beer. They have about 5 English-style cask conditioned ales on hand pump, and a few other styles, such as a pilsner that showcases NZ Sauvin hops. Also great was Pommeroy's, a pub about 20 minutes walk from the centre, which has 12 odd taps and a couple of hand pumps all dispensing various NZ craft beer.
Other highlights included some arvo cragging in the Port Hills, and some chilli mushrooms for breakfast one morning from the Beat Street Cafe. I then broke one of my cost cutting measure - hitching everywhere - by getting a bus to Wanaka. I'm glad I did, for various reasons, not least of which was the fact I had to carry around half my body weight in luggage!
It was nice to be back in Wanaka. It is hard to imagine a more beautiful setting for a town, perched on a lake as it is and surrounded by mountains, with a view to the snow peaks of Aspiring NP. I only stayed there one night though before heading up the West Matukituki Valley - the weather forecast was fantastic and I was keen to do some tramping. My planned itinerary was to cross to the Dart Valley via Cascade Saddle, and walk out to Glenorchy (and of course return to Wanaka via Fergburger in Queenstown) but there was just too much snow around the tops. Good for climbing - bad for walking. Instead I spent four wonderful days wandering the West Matukituki and then the East Matukituki in perfect weather.
I had a couple of rest days back in Wanaka, which naturally included a few brews, and even a visit to the local craft brewery, Wanaka Beerworks. They stick to three, not-so-adventurous styles, but they do them very well. I then headed back into Aspiring NO as the next weather window was coming about.
I was keen to climb Mt Aspiring, but couldn't find any partners, so climbed the SE ridge of Mt Barff, as had been recommended to me, instead. The name belies how pretty a mountain it actually is, and the route itself was 'just what the doctor ordered'. When walking by oneself up the valley, it's possible to think many thoughts, many doubtful, but when I was up there and the sun rose to shine on me on my way up, my very soul felt warmed by it.
After Barff-ing (haha, how lame...) I eventually made my way to Mount Cook Village (MCV). It is a small, out of the way place, especially compared to Wanaka, but is at the doorstep of the most extensive range of 'hills' here, and is also (or therefore) a place where many travelling climbers come to meet partners. Unfortunately the weather has been fairly average, causing plenty of hut time (where thinking of how to concoct the next meal from a limited supply of ingredients is the main agenda), but a couple of us did get out cragging on some great 'greywhacke', which I'm keen to revisit some time, and we fitted in a good day walk/climb the other day up a nearby ridge. In the meantime, we're just waiting for all those long white clouds to go away.
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