A week up the Upper Tasman

The weather may not have been great for the hills, but it was good enough to make a few outings from Unwin. Mt Edgar Thompson far exceeded my expectations; the ~1700m of elevation gain passed easily enough, but my knees felt half worn through after descending the same again. An overnight trip up the Hoophorn Ridge saw us bivvying in the valley below it rather than up on the Annette Plateau as planned. It was a pleasant bivvy, disturbed only by a couple of watchful Kea's. The ridge the next day was quite loose but provided some fun scrambling up to the plateau, where we were met with some ugly weather and thus hotfooted it down to Mueller Hut, then back to Unwin after some soup.

After a rest day, I joined a trip being run by the Wellington section of the New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC). Rob, Lisa, Andrew, Alex and I flew up to Tasman Saddle Hut hot on the heels of an excellent forecast for the coming week. Despite my preference of avoiding flights, for various reasons, I was quickly reminded that helicopters are just about the darned coolest things getting about.

We were in the hut long enough to throw our stuff on a bunk before we headed back out the door. The weather was just too good to be true, and I quickly dispelled any thoughts of me needing any more rest days after my Unwin outings. We headed over to Aylmer, climbed its short south face, then traversed over Hochstetter Dome.

The next day we were up at 05:00 - what was to be on this trip quite a luxurious time to rise. First up was the East Face of Mt Green, from Divers Col. Conditions were great, though my calves were burning from all the front-pointing. Green was both an aesthetically pleasing peak to climb, and also a nice climb/line in itself, with some lovely ridge climbing to gain Divers Col in the first place. Andrew and I headed back to the hut after Green, while the others went on to climb Mt Walter, a straightforward climb also from Divers Col. The going joke by evening was that this would be the trip of two climbs a day!

The following morning was a much more regular get-up time of 02:30. We were setting off for Mt Elie De Beaumont via the Anna Glacier route. The Anna Glacier has a tendency to break up quite early on in the season and thus become impassable, but luckily for us a party had forged a way through the day before us.We found ourselves in the huge, shearing bergschrund while it was still dark, standing on a floor of broken collapsed snow and ice which had been refrozen where it was. It was not immediately clear which path to take, but it ended up involving climbing a pitch up and another across the lower face of Walter. Back on the glacier it was an easy enough ascent to the summit, which was not lingered on for long thanks to some ~55km/hr winds blowing across it. Back at the schrund well before 11:00, small snow slides were already coming down the face of Walter, and we followed our route-setters example and rapped into the guts of the schrund. Conditions were still cold and the ground reassuringly firm underfoot. It meant that, while still needing to move quickly to get back to safer ground, we could appreciate the place we were in. I felt privileged to be granted safe travel through such a special, dynamic, uninhabitable place. We enjoyed a lazy lunch in the sun, and were back at the hut by 13:30.

The weather the following day, Wednesday, was again fantastic, but I had an enforced rest day while the others made the most of the day. It was nice having a rest day that was sunny, and I typically punctuated my day of reading and cleaning with plenty of eating. It was another early rise on Thursday as Rob, Alex and I set off for the Couloir Route on Mt Annan. It was in better condition than anticipated, and made for a really enjoyable climb. The ridge to Annan was quite loose, so after summiting we down climbed the couloir rather than continue down the ridge. We were back at the hut by 09:00, a perfect time for a second breakfast of pancakes, bacon, banana and golden syrup.

Time we had, and the following morning we set out once again, early, this time for a peak in the Murchison - we'd just about climbed the immediate area out of all sensible options! The conditions, though, were terrible, thanks to rising freezing levels, and after slogging through the snow as far as Tasman Saddle, we decided it wasn't worth pusing on given how soft the snow was. We returned to the hut, slept in to a decent hour, then flew out later in the day. It was a great trip, not only thanks to the incredibly good weather, but also due to it being such an excellent group of people.

Land of the Long White Cloud

My trip to NZ commenced in Christchurch, which was a veritable ghost town on my first day of strolling it. Was is the recent earthquakes? They had certainly caused a lot of damage - buildings and whole street sections were cordoned off left right and centre, either under repair or demolition.

I had some organising to do, but it didn't take up too much of my time. Thus I set about enacting one of my favourite activities: finding the best places to eat, have good coffee, beer wifi et al. I had planned to be on the strictest budget possible this trip, but I quickly found that there are some things in life that I just can't skimp on.

New Zealand has an excellent craft beer scene, and admittedly I had already promised myself before the trip that good beer would not be subject to my cost cutting. The beer highlight of Chch was The Twisted Hop, a brew/pub in the centre of town. It is a prime example of the kind of establishment I would love to see more of. They have a simple, good menu of comforting beer food. They support other craft breweries by having many bottles from various breweries available, as well as a guest tap. The highlight though, is of course their own beer. They have about 5 English-style cask conditioned ales on hand pump, and a few other styles, such as a pilsner that showcases NZ Sauvin hops. Also great was Pommeroy's, a pub about 20 minutes walk from the centre, which has 12 odd taps and a couple of hand pumps all dispensing various NZ craft beer.

Other highlights included some arvo cragging in the Port Hills, and some chilli mushrooms for breakfast one morning from the Beat Street Cafe. I then broke one of my cost cutting measure - hitching everywhere - by getting a bus to Wanaka. I'm glad I did, for various reasons, not least of which was the fact I had to carry around half my body weight in luggage!

It was nice to be back in Wanaka. It is hard to imagine a more beautiful setting for a town, perched on a lake as it is and surrounded by mountains, with a view to the snow peaks of Aspiring NP. I only stayed there one night though before heading up the West Matukituki Valley - the weather forecast was fantastic and I was keen to do some tramping. My planned itinerary was to cross to the Dart Valley via Cascade Saddle, and walk out to Glenorchy (and of course return to Wanaka via Fergburger in Queenstown) but there was just too much snow around the tops. Good for climbing - bad for walking. Instead I spent four wonderful days wandering the West Matukituki and then the East Matukituki in perfect weather.

I had a couple of rest days back in Wanaka, which naturally included a few brews, and even a visit to the local craft brewery, Wanaka Beerworks. They stick to three, not-so-adventurous styles, but they do them very well. I then headed back into Aspiring NO as the next weather window was coming about.

I was keen to climb Mt Aspiring, but couldn't find any partners, so climbed the SE ridge of Mt Barff, as had been recommended to me, instead. The name belies how pretty a mountain it actually is, and the route itself was 'just what the doctor ordered'. When walking by oneself up the valley, it's possible to think many thoughts, many doubtful, but when I was up there and the sun rose to shine on me on my way up, my very soul felt warmed by it.

After Barff-ing (haha, how lame...) I eventually made my way to Mount Cook Village (MCV). It is a small, out of the way place, especially compared to Wanaka, but is at the doorstep of the most extensive range of 'hills' here, and is also (or therefore) a place where many travelling climbers come to meet partners. Unfortunately the weather has been fairly average, causing plenty of hut time (where thinking of how to concoct the next meal from a limited supply of ingredients is the main agenda), but a couple of us did get out cragging on some great 'greywhacke', which I'm keen to revisit some time, and we fitted in a good day walk/climb the other day up a nearby ridge. In the meantime, we're just waiting for all those long white clouds to go away.

Liam was here

Yup. I did make it back to Australia. I managed to take two Air China pillows with me (great for 'luxurious' camping), and succeeded in bringing some Chinese tea and some wooden items back into the country. They were probably all safe enough to get through customs, but I always prefer to employ the 'decoy' method when going through.

Once I was back in Aus, I was more or less down to two options. One: go about finding work in Sydney, and thus not know when I may next have an extended period of time free. Two: continue my 'binge' (of unemployment and climbing) and head to New Zealand for a couple of months. Money would be the issue: NZ is a considerably more expensive country to bum around in than, say, China. Once I deemed that my funds would just allow for a (cheap as bro) trip, all it took was for a catch up with Jimmy to flick the switch in my mind to firmly YES (catching up with Jimmy can be very empowering, or dangerous, in that way - we seem to bounce ideas off each other in a way that makes anything seem possible).

And so, exactly one week after arriving back in Sydney, I booked return flights to Christchurch, NZ, departing about three weeks later.

The time that I did spend back in Aus, about a month, felt considerably busy, especially given my unemployed status.

Initially there was an enormous satisfaction in enjoying things like good sourdough bread, cheese, wine, good, craft beer, black pudding, pasta, etc etc, after a couple of months in China. That list could well go on.

I really do enjoy cooking, and so I was surprised at how long it took me to find the motivation to do some. Really, it was another installment of Kim & Lyndal's Epic BBQ that got me going. I got carried away by preparing/cooking three different things, but my Dulce do Leche cheese cake was the only thing I was reasonably happy with.

Eddie and Jo's wedding was the reason I came back when I did, and a lovely evening it was. I hate to focus so much on one theme, food, but the food at the wedding was fantastic! Usually 'function' food served out in quantity is merely acceptable; but this stuff was exceptional. Sumo wrestling at the Buck's party was also a hoot.

Within a week of my return, as Adam and I had discussed whilst in Croatia, we got together to put down a brew. We cooked up, more or less, an American style pale ale. Some Chinook hops went in for bittering, but all the rest were Cascade flower hops (grown in Aus - it is not possible to import hops in their flower form). We bottled it just before I left for NZ, and I can't wait to get back and try some. Christmas will be prime time.

Despite hypochondriac-esque fears of injury, I did get out rock climbing a couple of times. I spent the October long weekend down at Point Perpendicular with some old as well as new, well met friends. I really love Pt Perp. The climbing is in such a spectacular position, that even if the climbs were horrible it could still be worth it. They're not, though, there are a plethora of fantastic routes. Perhaps one of the drawbacks is the local cuisine - 'Chinese' at a local bowlo was a rude reminder as to what is going on in large parts of Australia.

One week I tee'd up some climbing at the Warrumbungles. I love that place! Hey, wait a minute.... Well, who cares if I've just repeated myself, I love the Bungles as well as Pt Perp, and many other places to boot! Monday morning saw me on a cityrail train to Lithgow. From there I hitched with a fascinating couple in their 70's. Who'd expect to be talking all about le tour on a hitch between Lithgow and Bathurst! From Bathurst I hitched with an expat Pole to Orange, where I dropped by my fave, Bills, for an awesome espresso. Not so awesome was the price, $3.50. Honestly, I am so sick of paying the same price for an espresso as a milky coffee. I got a ride to Dubbo in a B-double; 'twas a new experience travelling in one of them.

In Dubbo I met up with Heath, and we drove straight out to the Bungles for the walk up the yellow brick road to Balor Hut. What followed were three days (2.5 really) of great weather and fantastic climbing. Day one we climbed Flight of the Phoenix (300m 18) on Bluff Mountain, one of the classics of the area, if not Australia. The rock, largely, was surprisingly good (the Bungles has a well earnt reputation for loose rock and route-finding difficulties). The traverse out the 'wing' was magic.

Day two we jumped on Lieben (200m 17), another classic of the area. Put up by Bryden Allen and Ted Batty in 1962, it was for a time the hardest graded climb in Australia. The route ascends the west face of Crater Bluff, which is one of the most intimidating faces I have seen, and despite it being a grade lower than Flight, the thought of it always gave me more heebie jeebies than Flight. In climbing it, I did find the crux pitch as difficult as anything encountered on Flight. It was another great climb, and not quite as intimidating in practice as it looks from the ground.

Our final day, after much deliberation, we set out for Out and Beyond on Belougery Spire, typically did not find it, but did find Caucusus Corner (325m 17) - so started up it. We climbed four pitches up to the half way ledge. I was taken by surprise - they were fantastic, as enjoyable as anything on Flight or Lieben. From the ledge I commenced a traverse out; the exposure was exhilarating, fingers and toes keeping me on the rock above the void, protection just sufficient. It was, however, off-route, and I eventually climbed back in towards the ledge. We made a call to bail after that, and good thing we did as it started pelting down an hour later!

The trip to the Bungles all but concluded what had been an excellent month back in Aus. I was even at times questioning whether I really wanted to be leaving at all, but when else in life do we get a chance to do these things? I look forward to returning home, but it will be different this time, I will be faced with the realities of work and all that is involved with life in Sydney.