After Torres del Paine both Will and I were all sceneried out, so we decided to get out of the Patagonian wind and skip all the way north to Buenos Aires, for something different. We bussed it to El Calafate, from which we got on a flight a few hours later to Buenos Aires. I was surprised to see that El Calafate was the opposite of Puerto Natales - the main street lined with dressed up wine bars, shops selling Lacoste, and even a casino. It was satisfying in more ways than one to cook up some packet pasta in the nearest park.
My life this year had been pretty simple really - especially the month on Australis. Coming from that into a big city brought on a barrage of ups and downs, which I´m becoming familiar with upon entering any new, big city. Everything seems so difficult at first, there were so many things going through my mind (on the boat it was more like: ¨shall I have dulche de leche or porridge for breakfast?¨), but soon enough I relaxed and quickly began to enjoy myself.
It started with a bus ride to San Telmo from the airport. The bus driver couldn´t change a 5 peso note (worth about AU$2.50, the fair was 1.25 pesos) but luckily some local chicas assisted our despondent selves and changed what we had. This was the first insight to how ridiculously difficult it is to get change for the bus in BA. You´re kidding if you think you can buy an empanada with a 50 - they just don´t give out that kind of change. Here´s a fun little article on the situation: http://www.slate.com/id/2205635/
San Telmo was a nice little district with a bizarre infatuation for antiquities. Our second hostel (after night one at drunk-backpacker-hostel-with-a-bar-downstairs-so-who-ever-needs-to-leave-anyway) was great - it was like living in someones house - thank God it´s not in the Lonely Planet.
A fair amount of time was spent just wandering aimlessly. One day we headed out to a brilliant bookshop in a converted theatre - El Ateneo - whereupon I strengthened my resolve to read more Cortazar. Afterwards we aimed for a gigantic metal flower, then got ourselves a superpancho (hot-dog) as late lunch, before heading back to the hostel for a siesta.
The next day Will and I wandered over to La Boca, which was a little further than expected. La Boca is a poorer, working type neighbourhood in BA, and the trip was well worth it just to see the contrasts. Whereas a lot of inner BA is very European, La Boca definitely had a more South American feel to it. We could smell the ´river´ well before we saw it, but oh what a sight. It stank of seweradge, and looks so thick you could lay on it. There was this very obvious line running parallel to the shore, where 2 different density substances were just not going to mix. No matter how it sounds - it really was amazing to see!
We didn´t eat nearly as much as expected - just a small bite of typical Argentinian food makes you like you´ve eaten a lead weight. The odd empanada always went down well, a shared choripan (chorizo and bread = sausage sandwich) was great but oh so filling. On my last night there we went to a Peruvian restaurant with Liv & Chris (met on Australis) where the highlight was the Ceviche, lime cured fish.
BA for me though was all about the nights, and the people we met. Night 2 saw us finishing up in the main square in San Telmo dancing away to some drums with a small bunch of mostly locals. It was about 6am when I went to bed. The next night I met up with Liv & Chris to see some tango, then met back up with some Chilenas we´d been hanging out with and got back at 11:30 the next morning.
I only took about 3 photographs in BA. Will and I both wanted to feel the city in a way that had nothing to do with sightseeing, and it was great. It´s hard for me to put in words what BA made me feel. So much. I love the simplicity that climbing and in general ´outdoor´ pursuits boils life down to, but you miss out on the incredibly good feelings you get from interacting with people somewhat. And Oh the dancing - I´d only told Will in the week previous that I don´t like to dance, but scrap that now I do. The city left a great impression on me, and I can´t wait until I´m back again on my way home (maybe I´ll go and take a photo of the obelisk then...)
My life this year had been pretty simple really - especially the month on Australis. Coming from that into a big city brought on a barrage of ups and downs, which I´m becoming familiar with upon entering any new, big city. Everything seems so difficult at first, there were so many things going through my mind (on the boat it was more like: ¨shall I have dulche de leche or porridge for breakfast?¨), but soon enough I relaxed and quickly began to enjoy myself.
It started with a bus ride to San Telmo from the airport. The bus driver couldn´t change a 5 peso note (worth about AU$2.50, the fair was 1.25 pesos) but luckily some local chicas assisted our despondent selves and changed what we had. This was the first insight to how ridiculously difficult it is to get change for the bus in BA. You´re kidding if you think you can buy an empanada with a 50 - they just don´t give out that kind of change. Here´s a fun little article on the situation: http://www.slate.com/id/2205635/
San Telmo was a nice little district with a bizarre infatuation for antiquities. Our second hostel (after night one at drunk-backpacker-hostel-with-a-bar-downstairs-so-who-ever-needs-to-leave-anyway) was great - it was like living in someones house - thank God it´s not in the Lonely Planet.
A fair amount of time was spent just wandering aimlessly. One day we headed out to a brilliant bookshop in a converted theatre - El Ateneo - whereupon I strengthened my resolve to read more Cortazar. Afterwards we aimed for a gigantic metal flower, then got ourselves a superpancho (hot-dog) as late lunch, before heading back to the hostel for a siesta.
The next day Will and I wandered over to La Boca, which was a little further than expected. La Boca is a poorer, working type neighbourhood in BA, and the trip was well worth it just to see the contrasts. Whereas a lot of inner BA is very European, La Boca definitely had a more South American feel to it. We could smell the ´river´ well before we saw it, but oh what a sight. It stank of seweradge, and looks so thick you could lay on it. There was this very obvious line running parallel to the shore, where 2 different density substances were just not going to mix. No matter how it sounds - it really was amazing to see!
We didn´t eat nearly as much as expected - just a small bite of typical Argentinian food makes you like you´ve eaten a lead weight. The odd empanada always went down well, a shared choripan (chorizo and bread = sausage sandwich) was great but oh so filling. On my last night there we went to a Peruvian restaurant with Liv & Chris (met on Australis) where the highlight was the Ceviche, lime cured fish.
BA for me though was all about the nights, and the people we met. Night 2 saw us finishing up in the main square in San Telmo dancing away to some drums with a small bunch of mostly locals. It was about 6am when I went to bed. The next night I met up with Liv & Chris to see some tango, then met back up with some Chilenas we´d been hanging out with and got back at 11:30 the next morning.
I only took about 3 photographs in BA. Will and I both wanted to feel the city in a way that had nothing to do with sightseeing, and it was great. It´s hard for me to put in words what BA made me feel. So much. I love the simplicity that climbing and in general ´outdoor´ pursuits boils life down to, but you miss out on the incredibly good feelings you get from interacting with people somewhat. And Oh the dancing - I´d only told Will in the week previous that I don´t like to dance, but scrap that now I do. The city left a great impression on me, and I can´t wait until I´m back again on my way home (maybe I´ll go and take a photo of the obelisk then...)
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