Last you'd heard we'd arrived in Arco, Italy. It was a pleasurable stay of around 5 days. Some shopping was done on the first day and a half (gear stores there were NOT as cheap as had previously been heralded) before getting out climbing. We spent a bit of time 'cragging', before tackling via Teresa up the Plache Zebratta wall. The route ascends a 400m odd slab - the longest route either of us had done before, and was a great day out. Time just rolls along, as you climb pitch after pitch, forgetting even how many had been climbed. Still - from afar the wall looks small in comparison to the massive limestone amphitheatre towering above it (a popular spot for BASE jumpers).
There have been two things that stand out to me as the highlights of this trip so far. One is the climbing, which for me includes everything from the climbing itself to the amazing vistas. The other is not the churches, castles, and their history - but the food! We've been cooking up a storm every night on my little stove, everything from salted fish rissotto's to currant and nut cous cous. No 2 minute noodles yet! We've also come to an agreement that the best way to sample the European culture as we go is by eating the local specialty! It's been a fine way to go...
It wasn't until Arco that we got our first pizza in Italy. Good - but definately not amazing. I think anywhere would be hard pressed to beat Oatley Pub pizzas. The pastas that we bought were above average. As far as eating out, I think I was most impressed with the antipasti. Including 'air dried horse meat', and some raw red meat at another place - if only I knew what cut of meat it was - but I guess thats part of the adventure. The gelatos of course are good, cheap, and regular - and spritz, a bitter orange drink goes down well on a sunny afternoon in the piazza.
Our accommodation in Arco was at a farmers hut nestled within the vineyards - a word by mouth climbers hut, where we were joined by several Czech's. I don't know if I'll ever get tired of feeding vegemite to foreigners - great fun.
From Arco we headed up into the Dolomites. Everything everyone had told us about it being too early - was true. The Dolomites were CLOSED - at least the ghost towns made it seem that way. We spend one day going for a walk, which involved a lot of time battling through snow. It was a nice change from the climbing, but we decided we needed to head south.
And so, next stop was Venice. It surprised me to realise that it was my third time there. Still, with a memory as bad as mine it was well worth the visit. There's only so many tourists (I know, we are too...) either me or Nik can take, though. Just as enjoyable as the main attractions there, was wondering the back streets of the quieter districts and getting a feel for what it actually feels like to live there, and getting a sail sized sliced of pizza and a take away beer and enjoying them by the side of a quiet canal.
From Venice we headed back to the Dolomites, to the Schiara group, which is one of the more southern groups with climbs predominately on the south face (ie less snow). After an after dark slog up 900m in elevation with enough climbing gear to build a go kart, we got to a fantastic little bivi - next to a larger 'refugio' (which for sane people is open in the summer months) it functions as an emergency winter room, and had beds, mattresses, and blankets waiting for us. Just no beer.
The next morning dawned well, and we set off to traverse Mt Schiara's ridge. The route is entirely on good tracks, or vie ferrate, where a combination of steel cables and ladders are put in place to protect the walker. It was the first I'd been on, and I loved it. It still gets very exposed, with ladders going up vertical aretes and so forth. The fun ended before we reached the ridge though - even on this south face, the snow was still there in the gullies up high, making a usually safe crossing dangerous - and so we came back down.
Being thoroughly defeated by the Dolomites, we decided to walk out the next day. Our wake up call was a helicopter, and as we sipped our coffee it started bringing loads of concrete up to drop off on the pad 10m away from us - hows the tranquility... They are in the process of buliding a telepherique up from the town at the base of valley - something that will surely be open in Summer.
And so it was time to head to Switzeland. After an afternoon driving, we spent a quick night in another vineyard before getting up and driving through Austria (coffee and strudel - not exactly a regional specialty...), then Liechtenstein and finally into Switerland, to stay with a friend of Nik's from Marseille. It's good to be not sleeping in a tent! Initial thoughts on Switwerland? Everyone is SO friendly! To paint a picture before I get on with life away from the screen, I have
been sitting here with a nice cold beer, and various cuts of smoked beef, pork - and lamb! Fresh from the local butcher, who turned out to be an abotoire as well - they invited us for a tour when we dropped by to ask for a roast (we've mainly been eating vegetarian on the road - easier to cook and keep). Of course there is swiss cheese involved as well, and some good swiss brown bread - a nice change from the white stuff in France. And as soon as I look out the window, there's no mistaking I'm in Switzerland. It really is just like the movies! Rolling green hills fade into the distance, where snowcapped mountains rear up. They're where we should be next week!
There have been two things that stand out to me as the highlights of this trip so far. One is the climbing, which for me includes everything from the climbing itself to the amazing vistas. The other is not the churches, castles, and their history - but the food! We've been cooking up a storm every night on my little stove, everything from salted fish rissotto's to currant and nut cous cous. No 2 minute noodles yet! We've also come to an agreement that the best way to sample the European culture as we go is by eating the local specialty! It's been a fine way to go...
It wasn't until Arco that we got our first pizza in Italy. Good - but definately not amazing. I think anywhere would be hard pressed to beat Oatley Pub pizzas. The pastas that we bought were above average. As far as eating out, I think I was most impressed with the antipasti. Including 'air dried horse meat', and some raw red meat at another place - if only I knew what cut of meat it was - but I guess thats part of the adventure. The gelatos of course are good, cheap, and regular - and spritz, a bitter orange drink goes down well on a sunny afternoon in the piazza.
Our accommodation in Arco was at a farmers hut nestled within the vineyards - a word by mouth climbers hut, where we were joined by several Czech's. I don't know if I'll ever get tired of feeding vegemite to foreigners - great fun.
From Arco we headed up into the Dolomites. Everything everyone had told us about it being too early - was true. The Dolomites were CLOSED - at least the ghost towns made it seem that way. We spend one day going for a walk, which involved a lot of time battling through snow. It was a nice change from the climbing, but we decided we needed to head south.
And so, next stop was Venice. It surprised me to realise that it was my third time there. Still, with a memory as bad as mine it was well worth the visit. There's only so many tourists (I know, we are too...) either me or Nik can take, though. Just as enjoyable as the main attractions there, was wondering the back streets of the quieter districts and getting a feel for what it actually feels like to live there, and getting a sail sized sliced of pizza and a take away beer and enjoying them by the side of a quiet canal.
From Venice we headed back to the Dolomites, to the Schiara group, which is one of the more southern groups with climbs predominately on the south face (ie less snow). After an after dark slog up 900m in elevation with enough climbing gear to build a go kart, we got to a fantastic little bivi - next to a larger 'refugio' (which for sane people is open in the summer months) it functions as an emergency winter room, and had beds, mattresses, and blankets waiting for us. Just no beer.
The next morning dawned well, and we set off to traverse Mt Schiara's ridge. The route is entirely on good tracks, or vie ferrate, where a combination of steel cables and ladders are put in place to protect the walker. It was the first I'd been on, and I loved it. It still gets very exposed, with ladders going up vertical aretes and so forth. The fun ended before we reached the ridge though - even on this south face, the snow was still there in the gullies up high, making a usually safe crossing dangerous - and so we came back down.
Being thoroughly defeated by the Dolomites, we decided to walk out the next day. Our wake up call was a helicopter, and as we sipped our coffee it started bringing loads of concrete up to drop off on the pad 10m away from us - hows the tranquility... They are in the process of buliding a telepherique up from the town at the base of valley - something that will surely be open in Summer.
And so it was time to head to Switzeland. After an afternoon driving, we spent a quick night in another vineyard before getting up and driving through Austria (coffee and strudel - not exactly a regional specialty...), then Liechtenstein and finally into Switerland, to stay with a friend of Nik's from Marseille. It's good to be not sleeping in a tent! Initial thoughts on Switwerland? Everyone is SO friendly! To paint a picture before I get on with life away from the screen, I have
been sitting here with a nice cold beer, and various cuts of smoked beef, pork - and lamb! Fresh from the local butcher, who turned out to be an abotoire as well - they invited us for a tour when we dropped by to ask for a roast (we've mainly been eating vegetarian on the road - easier to cook and keep). Of course there is swiss cheese involved as well, and some good swiss brown bread - a nice change from the white stuff in France. And as soon as I look out the window, there's no mistaking I'm in Switzerland. It really is just like the movies! Rolling green hills fade into the distance, where snowcapped mountains rear up. They're where we should be next week!
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